Over the next 4 blogs I will be going over the 3 different levels of acne & how to treat it.
Let’s talk about what acne really is and what causes it. Once you understand how acne is formed, it’s much easier to treat.
Acne is a disorder of the skin caused by inflammation of the skin glands and hair follicles. Since it forms under the skin, washing away surface oils doesn’t do much to prevent or cure it.
A hair follicle (pore) branches to glands that produce sebum (oil). These sebaceous glands produce a small amount of oil to help keep the skin hydrated and healthy. This oil stimulates the follicle to shed cells within the follicle for healthy natural exfoliating. When oxygen enters the hair follicle, it kills the “p” bacteria that tend to hide within the follicle. This oil, along with the dead cells, flows to the top of the follicle and is secreted on the skin’s surface. Regular cleansing of the face will then wash it all away.
But for some people, the sebaceous glands are producing too much oil (sebum).
This can be caused by:
… & several other reasons
This excess oil will stimulate the follicle to shed cells more rapidly. These cells & oil cannot make it to the surface of the skin fast enough so they start to stick together, forming a plug. This plug traps the sebum & prevents the oxygen from entering the follicle and killing the “p” bacteria.
So how do you treat acne?
All you need to do is:
slow down the sebaceous glands
keep the pore open
kill the acne “p” bacteria
Then voila...NO more acne. Even though this seems simple, the hard part is that the ingredients needed to keep the pore open & clean are often times drying and irritating to the skin. So treating acne becomes a balancing act. You need to use specific acids to keep the pore open, but also need to incorporate ingredients to keep the skin hydrated and healthy.
Derma MD Wasabi products do just this. We use Micro-Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, which means it is time released into the skin and therefore not as harsh as straight glycolic or salicylic acid. PLUS the salicylic acid helps to slow down the sebaceous glands. We also use natural, gentle Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) which reduces inflammation and “p” bacteria, all while keeping the skin healthy and hydrated.
One more key ingredient that is unique to the Derma MD Wasabi line is Hyaluronic Acid. This is an excellent ingredient to maintain the hydration in your skin. This is the step that is missed by most acne treatments on the market.
Ingredients with latest technology to treat acne include:
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)4% or more
Comparable to 1% Clindamycin (a prescription antibiotic)
Increases moisture retention
Helps fight bacteria
Reduces Acne “P” bacteria
Micro-Encapsulated Salicylic Acid
Nano-Technology delivers superior results
Superior penetration for better control of sebum
Next week we’ll be discussing the different types of acne, and the specific treatments for each.
Getting away from winter. Traveling south to some heat! Don’t forget to maintain your skincare routine on the go!!
7 Travel Skincare Tips:
HYDRATE – Traveling can take a lot out of you, especially when it comes to hydration. At the airport or on the road, bring your water bottle that you can keep full. Drinking plenty of will help eliminate toxins and keep skin looking fresh & hydrated.
MOISTURIZE – Traveling in airports or cars can be so dry with air conditioning &/or heat. This means the extremely dry air blasting at you wants to absorb moisture from anywhere it can, including your skin. Always bring intensive moisturizing cream you can use on your hands, feet, and everywhere in between. COUGAR Hydra Boost Body Crème not only adds moisture to your hands & body but helps keep the body’s moisture in.
BARE – Heavy makeup on a long flight or road trip can be a recipe for disaster and breakouts! If you are on an extended road trip or flight have some disposable cleansing pads on hand to wipe away makeup for a clean fresh face during your travel.
ROUTINE – Don’t let your travels throw off your beauty regime once you get to your destination. Derma MD offers all your products in one handy kit which is great for travel. The 5 moisturizers and serums come in a travel case containing 15ml syringes for no mess application ANYWHERE. These syringes will last 4 – 6 weeks. So will last for those extended trips and can be thrown in your carry on.
EYES – Pack a cooling eye mask to fight puffiness around the eyes and to help you get some beauty sleep on the long car ride or airplane. Feel well rested and look great too!
MOVE – Long flights and car rides can cause muscle aches (or worse) if you’re not careful. Make an effort to get up and stretch your legs on a plane or go for a short walk on your stops if traveling in a vehicle. It is important to get your blood circulating when you can.
PROTECT – Last but MOST importantly protect your skin from the harmful UVA & UVB rays. Make sure you use a sunscreen every morning and throughout the day for full protection (Ultra Shield SPF is included in the Derma MD Anti-Aging kit)
Let's talk about apples and snails. Now that's an odd topic of conversation, you might say. Well indeed it is, however, Apple Stem Cells and Snail Secretion Filtrate are two of the active ingredients in our revolutionary anti-aging serum Lifting Stem Cell Serum!
As odd as these two ingredients may sound, they both have very interesting stories. Each are anti-aging powerhouses on their own and they have been combined into Lifting Stem Cell Serum to create a super serum that provides quick results to aging skin and also helps those who are battling both acne and aging.
Apple Stem Cell Technology comes from the Uttwiler Spatlauber apple tree in Switzerland. This rare type of apple is known for having a remarkably long shelf life. It was cultivated in the 18th century, before refrigeration, when it was necessary for an apple to last through the winter without spoiling. Although it is no longer cultivated, some of these trees still remain in Switzerland. A group of Swiss scientists decided to study the apple to find out its secret of self preservation. They discovered that these apples contain highly active stem cells that, like human stem cells, have the ability to regenerate other cells. This regeneration process allows the apple to essentially preserve itself! Pretty cool, but what's even cooler is that this apple stem cell extract has been shown to stimulate human stem cells, helping them to regenerate and protecting them from ultra violet (UV) damage. This is big news in anti-aging skincare! This precious extract can increase the longevity of skin cells and rejuvenate aging skin. Wow!
Snail Secretion Filtrate has been used since the time of the Greeks and Romans. This ancient garden snail (known as Helix Aspersa Müller) has survived extreme environmental conditions for more than 600 million years. The secret to the snail's longevity is its ability to repair any damage to its skin and prevent infection with its complex secretions. More recently, snail farmers in Chili discovered that the snail's secretions made their hands incredibly soft and smooth and that wounds and infections healed rapidly and without scarring. This is due to the fact that the snail's secretions are rich in vitamins such as A, C and E and are a natural source of skin softening allantoin, collagen and elastin. These ingredients help repair and rejuvenate skin and this Snail Secretion Extract also opens clogged pores and provides anti-bacterial benefits, making it an excellent choice for those who are trying to prevent pimples as well as wrinkles. The snail's secretions are collected without harming the animal and then filtered to produce this rich, anti-aging extract.
These two revolutionary ingredients have been combined with skin smoothing Apricot Kernel Oil, oxygenating Tissue Respiratory Factor (TRF), moisturizing Algae Extract and anti-inflammatory AstaXanthin to create an anti-aging powerhouse serum. Used twice daily, this product will help provide longevity of skin cells, reverse signs of aging, unclog pores and create a more youthful and vibrant appearance.
Although scent may seem inconsequential for skin care, it’s actually a very important aspect, beyond just basic enjoyment. The reason being that many consumers experience early onset of aging skin because they don’t use proper skincare on a regular enough basis...they simply forget to do it or don’t feel that it’s important enough.
However, research in the last few decades has suggested that a big part of our behavior is based on habits.
A habit emerges when we have a cue, perform a routine, and receive a reward.
A nice-smelling product can promote more regular use because the good smell acts as a reward for going through the process of applying the product. Therefore, in theory, the consumer is more likely to remember it and use it on a regular basis…which will make the product more effective!
Something will only work if you use it!
And in the case of skincare, a product generally needs to be used daily for a minimum of 28 days to have a chance to show results.
HOW BIO OIL WORKS…
Unlike retinol serum or a hydroquinone cream, (or a cosmeceutical product), this oil is not specialized-enough to target beyond the epidermal layer of the skin. However, the maker of Bio Oil claims that the product can have a meaningful impact on more general problems like aging skin symptoms, stretch marks, uneven pigmentation (like sun spots), and dry skin.
The idea is that Bio Oil contains various ingredients and by using this item regularly, at least one of the ingredients will have a positive effect on the skin.
Some of the key ingredients in Bio Oil include:
Rosemary Oil: This ingredient is often included in skin care products due to its antimicrobial properties. By reducing infection-causing bacteria and viruses, rosemary oil may be able to reduce inflammation and promote healing of micro wounds. This, in turn, will help keep the skin healthier and more resilient.
Chamomile Oil: Has healing and anti-inflammatory properties and is formulated into skin care products for several reasons. Firstly, mere inhalation of the oil can have calming properties, which promotes lower stress and an overall sense of well being. However, chamomile oil is also known to reduce inflammation on the skin and to even out pigmentation issues.
Vitamin A: Helps to regulate the skin’s shedding process. There are many forms of vitamin A and most Spa, Department or Drug Store skincare products that contain vitamin A will be in a less active form and in low concentrations so as not to cause skin irritation or other adverse reactions.
Lavender Oil: Is believed to have been used in skincare for thousands of years. It is valued for its anti-bacterial, anti-fungi and calming benefits. Lavender oil also provides antioxidants which help protect the skin from free radical damage.
Vitamin E: Is a well-known antioxidant and natural preservative which helps keep the product from expiring early.
Calendula Oil: Has very effective redness-reducing and calming properties and has also been proven to reduce itching, irritation, and helps to heal dry, flaky skin.
WHAT DO ALL SKIN TIGHTENING, FIRMING, TREATMENTS HAVE IN COMMON…?
The stimulation of fibroblasts to produce more COLLAGEN with HEAT or TRAUMA.
Collagen is the “support mattress” for our skin and is made of many cross-linked fibers in an organized array.
Collagen production stops in our mid to late 20’s resulting in increased laxity and formation of lines and wrinkles. The common denominator in all treatments and procedures to increase collagen production = heat or trauma.
Heat and trauma stimulate the cells that make collagen (fibroblasts) to reactivate and produce new and/or more collagen. A few ways this can be done include:
What’s worse than sending your kids back to school with a face full of acne, blemishes, or red, ugly, irritated skin? School is hard enough without dealing with skin problems.
The trick is to get the right balance between ingredients that target and treat the acnewithout stripping all the natural skin’s protectants and leaving the skin super dry, flaky and sensitive.
Acne is classified from stages 1 – 4. Only a medical professional can “diagnose” a skin condition, however, the basis of what causes acne and blemishes is:
Dead skin cells mix with sebum to form clogs in your pores, and if these clogs don’t get cleared out, bacteria starts to grow, resulting in redness, blemishes, whiteheads, blackheads, acne etc.
The key elements for preventing and treating mild acne is:
- exfoliation: to remove dead skin cells
- controlling excess sebum production (oily skin)
- effective cleansing of pores (at least twice daily)
- and do all this without over-drying or irritating the skin
For effective but gentle exfoliation try: salicylic acid, scrubs with pumice or beads (avoid walnut or apricot shells – they can cause microscopic scratches which can promote bacterial growth)
For controlling oil try: low levels of retinol, toners (alcohol free), moisturizers with Hyaluronic acid in serum form to provide hydration without causing congestion. If the skin is stripped of natural oil (sebum) too often, it will stimulate more sebum to be produced because the skin thinks it is too dry.
Masks are great too, especially detoxing clay masks or charcoal or sulfur or various others.
For cleansing try: salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide cleansers to dissolve clogs, and anti-bacterial agents such as tea tree, wasabi, niacinamide (which is comparable to 1% Clindamycin).
Try DermaMD’s Wasabi Line for acne prone skin. It’s easy to use, smells great, comes in attractive unisex packaging and is suitable for tweens right up to adults. It comes as a pack with a Gel Cleanser, Toner and Serum. Use twice daily for healthy, clear skin!
Coconut oil is packed with antioxidants and vitamins which:
promote cellular repair & protect against premature aging
minimize the appearance of pores
prevent moisture loss
Virgin Coconut Oil is a natural combination of Lauric Acid, Caprylic Acid and Capric Acid. These 3 fatty acids provide strong disinfectant, anti-microbial and moisturizing properties when applied on skin and hair. Benefits include:
properties proven to successfully fight candida and other skin infections such as acne
coconut oil is an excellent moisturizer for those with severely dry skin conditions (like eczema and psoriasis), and is excellent for providing moisture to dry hair.
IN SUMMARY:Coconut oil is a great body oil, hair moisturizer and night-time facial moisturizer for dry and mature skin types.
Now, onto the cons.
While organic coconut oil can be an ideal moisturizer for those suffering from very dry skin, those with sensitive or oily skin should be wary of slathering coconut oil on their faces.
Coconut oil has a comedogenic rating of 4, which means that it has a high likelihood of clogging pores and causing breakouts for most skin types. If you want to experience the intense hydration and antioxidant powers of coconut oil (without risking a breakout), try using the oil sparingly as a night mask, or a homemade sugar scrub, or as a makeup remover.
IN SUMMARY: Coconut oil can clog pores (highly comedogenic) and should be used sparingly until you know how your skin will react. Also, exfoliation after coconut oil use will help to clear pores and prevent breakouts.
We used to think it was the ideal way of ‘LOOKING HEALTHY’…you know, that 'HEALTHY GLOW', right?!
Remember back in time when the rich never went outside, and the most desired look was to be as PALE as possible.
The ones with colour and a tan were the workers, because they were outside.
Then it changed, and the desired look was to look tanned, because that was associated with those who could afford to take vacation and go somewhere warm! So, the rich were those who could travel to warm exotic locations and 'live the life of leisure'!
Well, now times are slowly changing again, and there is clear scientific evidence showing that a TAN is actually damaged skin…
A tan is when melanocytes are stimulated to produce more than the normal amount of melanin (the colouring in our skin & hair) to protect the skin cells from burning and it’s a sign of disrupted natural function of the skin.
Why is this so bad?
Well, melanin forms a sort-of umbrella over the nucleus of the cell (the nucleus is like the heart of the cell and where the DNA is) and if the melanin can’t protect the nucleus of the cells from the radiation of the sun, FREE RADICALS are formed and the DNA can be effected and cause unnatural replication which can lead to cancer…
So the best ways to prevent skin cancer are to:
Use Sunscreen: action is similar to melanin (to protect against radiation);
Use Antioxidants: action is to prevent Free Radicals from damaging cells.
You may have already heard (probably from us!) that Vitamin C is an important ingredient in your skincare products. But...
The truth is not all products containing vitamin C are created equal.
There are different forms of vitamin C, different concentrations and different formulations (serums, creams, and combinations with other antioxidants).
It is important to do your research before purchasing a Vitamin C product.
The most effective topical Vitamin C products for skin health must be:
in the form of L-Ascorbic Acid or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
at a concentration level between 10-20% (below 10% is not effective and above 20% is irritating and can’t be absorbed fully into the skin)
in a serum (for the best penetration)
in a stable and pure form
packaged in a dark/opaque container to protect from UV degradation
in a blend with other antioxidants (multiple antioxidants work synergistically helping each other to act more potently together than each on their own.)
Vitamin C in its basic state is very unstable (as are all antioxidants, by nature), and can become ineffective when exposed to UV light and oxygen.
Derma MD's Vitamin C Serums contain onlystabilized forms of Vitamin C, so you know you are getting good value for your investment!
The Vitamin C21 serum contains 20% L-ascorbic acid, making it highly active, and can tingle on the skin for those new to using very active ingredients. It is also formulated as a blend with other powerful antioxidants such as ferulic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E). Skin appears brighter, younger and has a more even skin tone, and a luminous glow. It is packaged in a beautiful air-tight pump to provide excellent protection for the product.
This serum contains a combination of water and oil-soluble vitamin C for excellent penetration. It is blended with additional antioxidants such as Astaxanthin, willow bark extract, vitamin E, grape seed, pomegranate, and cranberry seed extracts for collagen boosting abilities and powerful protection against free radicals.
Bilberry and bearberry extracts assist in lightening dark spots and brightening your complexion.
Always use antioxidants (under sunscreen) in the morning– to PROTECT during the day!
OK, so all winter we are diligent with our daily skincare regime, cleansing, toning, serums, antioxidants, moisturizers, SPF, exfoliants, corrective and anti-aging potions, you name it…however for some of us, when summer hits (i.e. the first day above 25 oC), we’re like winter hostages set free; we’re all OUTSIDE…we’re mowing the lawn, planting flowers, weeding, sitting on patios, washing the car, going to the park, zoo, lake, mountains…etc. and our virgin, winter-white skin turns pink in no time flat! And even those of us who slather on the sunscreen, wear a hat, sunglasses etc, can inevitably end up with a sunburn…
So then what do we do??
What is the best sunburn relief?
Some easy home remedies:
Oatmeal is the bomb when it comes to soothing irritated, inflamed skin. It works wonders as a cool compress by wrapping a 1/2 cup of dry oatmeal in gauze, running it under cool water, and applying it directly to your sunburn every few hours.
A cool shower, or bath, or a cold cloth with a few ice cubes wrapped inside applied directly to the burn.
adding baking soda to your bath can provide extra pain relief;
or apple cider vinegar: it sounds like it would sting but it actually provides great cooling and comfort. It’s also antibacterial and can help prevent infection.
The natural cultures in yogurt can work wonders on dry skin so it makes perfect sense that they would also work magic on a stubborn sunburn. Use yogurt as a topical cream and slather it over sunburned areas, leaving it for 5-minutes, then rinse off under a cool shower.
Witch hazel is a beneficial natural astringent with anti-inflammatory properties, which is why it also soothes painful acne and razor burn. For a sunburn, apply a few drops on a moist cloth or cotton swab and dab directly onto skin.
Sunburnt eyelids: use tea bags (black tea, white tea, or green tea) apply a cool tea bag to each swollen eye. The tannic acid within will ease swelling and reduce pain.
Aloe vera: gels and lotions are awesome.
If the burn is really itchy and blistering, hydrocortisone can help, but try not to use it for extended periods of time, as it can eventually thin the dermal layer of the skin…(which is what we are always trying to build up with all of our expensive anti-aging skincare products!)
What to Buy:
DermaMD’s Soy Moisturizer has excellent healing benefits. It is very moisturizing, soothing, calming and provides great sunburn relief! It is also wonderful for chafing, heat rash, eczema, psoriasis, or other skin rashes, excessive dryness, flaking, cracking or inflammation. It’s an overall awesome moisturizer for any kind of skin irritation.
Anyone with Rosacea knows it is never going away completely so the trick is to keep it as calm as possible. Summer is challenging, with many triggers such as:
heat, sun, wind, dryness, and dust,
and often the products that are intended to protect against dryness, sunburn, etc can cause breakouts or congestion!
How to cope:
Try Derma MD’s best seller: PINK SILK – it is full of amazing anti-oxidants (like “Astaxanthin” - an anti-inflammatory antioxidant from red algae found to be 500-1000 times more effective for its antioxidant properties than Vitamin E!)
It contains peptides for combating signs of aging including Palmitoyl Hexpapetide-12 and Copper Tripeptide which is also calming and healing.
Pink silk is also a great rejuvenating moisturizer with castor seed and safflower seed oils, ceramides and papaya fruit extract, as well as, green tea extracts which help strengthen the skin from within, without being oily, heavy, occlusive or irritating. It is healing, calming, hydrating, has a beautiful light texture and penetrates immediately into the skin upon application.
It is very concentrated and a pea-size amount is all you need.
Apply on clean skin twice daily.
This product is now available in new packaging: it’s modern and sophisticated and looks like a very high-end product but the best part is it has a hygienic pump so there is no contamination or degradation of the product.
It’s called REPLENISH, and it’s a silky smooth serum combined with multiple potent peptides and 8-10% hyaluronic acid! This innovative formulation has a combination of multiple peptides…for example: Matrixyl 3000™ which is excellent for firming and tightening and (copper/zinc/selenium/manganese) peptides to allow for prompt skin penetration and optimal cell function.
This peptide solution has been shown to support and improve skin repair and assist in UV protection.
Vitamin B-5 helps reduce inflammation and also assists healing of the skin. Additional antioxidants such as Vitamin C, grape seed skin extract, and fennel seed protect the skin from free radical damage.
And of course, Hyaluronic Acid (HA) which is a sugar that exists in the skin naturally and acts as a natural moisturizing agent. HA is already in our skin, but we lose it as we age, therefore, adding it back in in the form of a serum will help replenish dehydrated, dull, lax skin.
Combining HA with peptides in the form of a serum is ideal. Serums penetrate better than creams or lotions and should be used on clean skin, either twice daily or just at night.
Replenish will reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, furrows and laxity leaving the skin smoother, firmer, tighter, more hydrated and with a more even texture.
The Genetics of Aging (and how to fight it - for you AND your mom!)
Scientists have previously attributed “aging” to cell damage accumulated throughout life, but now studies show some aspects of aging might be inherited! In these studies, certain cells have shown to have damage already present at birth, and are transmitted from mother to child via Mitochondrial DNA.
Gee, thanks Mom!
But we do have a solution….! Peptides to the rescue of your aging eyes!
Aging is a popular topic of study these days as the Baby-Boomer generation is desperate to preserve their youth! Certain ingredients have been proven many times over to help prevent premature aging and even reverse some signs of aging, especially for the delicate eye area.
Some general tips for choosing the right EYE CREAM:
Eye creams for daytime are generally designed to help reduce puffiness and dark circles; where as night time versions usually have more emollients and are meant to repair and correctthe skin while you sleep.
ingredients that target early signs of aging include:
antioxidants (vitamins c, e, ferulic acid), hyaluronic acid
ingredients that target more mature skin with advanced signs of aging:
peptides (copper peptides, palmitoyl oligopeptide, Hyloxyl, Eyeliss, Matrixyl, many others), antioxidants, emollients (glycerin, urea), retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, growth factors and brightening agents like kojic acid, mica and titanium dioxide.
An eye cream that contains a combination of antioxidants, emollients, anti-inflammatory agents to reduce swelling and puffiness, brightening agents, firming and tightening agents and peptides will offer multi-faceted benefits that can be used am and pm.
Hyloxyl (a proprietary blend including: palmitoyl oligopeptide & palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7)found in certain plants and in bee pollen and has been proven to reduce inflammation, dark circles and puffiness. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 also boosts collagen production resulting in an increase in firmness.
Eyelisswhich contains 3 natural and effective peptides that work together to eliminate the causes of eye bags. These three peptides include:
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone– This is a natural ingredient that is found in several different citrus fruits like oranges or grapefruits. This peptide strengthens the tiny capillaries under the eyes, which reduces leakage. It also minimizes some of the swelling and that bluish purple color that can make you look so ill.
Dipeptide Valyl-Tryptophne– A natural ingredient that actually promotes the drainage of fluid that collects under the eyes. It can also reduce some of the puffiness caused by the buildup of fluids.
Lipopeptide Pal-GQPR– This peptide decreases inflammation, improves elasticity and firmness of the skin around the eyes and helps to reduce under eye wrinkles.
Sodium Hyaluronate – a great moisturizing agent
Retinyl palmitate – is converted to retinol, once absorbed into the skin and ultimately to retinoic acid, which stimulates collagen production, cell turn-over rate and overall skin health.
copper PCA – reduces wrinkles, redness & supports hydration in the skin