NOT all Vitamin C’s are the same.  There are 100’s of Vitamin C’s on the market that pretty much do the same thing except some work best at fighting free radical damage, others excel at fading dark spots.  Some have a short lifespan while others will stay in your skin for months. Some sting and can’t be used on sensitive skin and others don’t even make the skin tingle.

That’s enough to make your head spin right? How are you ever going to choose the right type of Vitamin C for you? 

L-Ascorbic Acid

The most common & one of the first used in skincare.  Pure form & water soluble.  Powerful Antioxidant that boosts collagen & reduces dark spots.  One of the most effective forms of Vitamin C.  However, it is VERY unstable which means it oxidizes when exposed to heat, light & air.  ALSO it can be very irritating to the skin.

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide - Water soluble derivative of Vitamin C, very stable and easily converts to L-Ascorbic Acid when applied to the skin.  Provides all the benefits with less irritation.

Ascorbyl Glucosdie – Vitamin C + Glucose.  Fights free radicals & boosts collagen.  Only a few studies that support the skin lightening claim.

Ascorbyl Palmitate – L-ascorbic acid + palmitic acid – non acidic.  No evidence it can brighten skin or boost collagen but has excellent antioxidant properties to fight free radicals.  Not very stable so can go bad as quickly as L-Ascorbic

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – water soluble derivative of Vitamin C.  Stable form that fights free radicals & increases collagen production.  Non- irritating.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate –L-ascorbic acid monophosphate – stabilized sodium salt of L-ascorbic acid.  POWERFUL antioxidant that fights free radicals, brightens skintone & boosts collagen.  PLUS it helps fight acne.

Tetrahexyldectyl Ascorbate – Oil soluble & stable.  Newest form of Vitamin c that penetrates skin deeper & faster than any other form of Vitamin C.  It fights free radicals, boosts, collagen & brightens skin. 

What to look for in a Vitamin C product:

1. Vitamin C (all types) loses a bit of its effectiveness when exposed to light & air so go for an opaque, air-tight tube or bottle.
2. Vitamin C is more effective when used with Vitamin E &/or ferulic acid. This also boosts the protection of your sunscreen.
3. Combination of Vitamin C’s is excellent.
4. High percentage of Vitamin C - make sure ingredient is listed in first 1/2 of ingredient deck

Your Skincare Specialist - Donna

donna@dermamdcanada.ca